Engine Installation – 2 Hours

Today was a great day as the 2nd build milestone was completed with the installation of the engine and transmission. This keeps the build on schedule for a first engine start around Thanks Giving.


Tips and general information:

1. Use a 2 ton engine leveler, the ¾ ton leveler used although within the weight limit has limited span and chain length which meant that the EFI injection body needed removing.

2. Wrap and protect every area you think you may scratch or accidentally swing into. In the picture you can see bubble wrap around the lifting chain to protect the valve covers and inlet manifold, bubble wrap on the hydraulic cylinder as the steep transmission angle required results in the pulley’s hitting the ram. Radiator mounting bar and 4” cross tube all benefit from protection.

3. Jacking the rear of the car higher than the front reduces the angle required to swing in the transmission.

4. Use of a ratchet strap on the transmission helps jacking the complete assemble back towards the rear and aligning the engine mounts.

5. The large plate of aluminum under the transmission mount will be machined to form a ¾” spacer as required for a Tremec TKO.

6. Slow and steady, it’s not a race.

Installed Transmission – 1 Hour

Part one of this weekend’s engine and drive train installation was to connect the transmission to the engine, you will see from the picture that the easiest method is to use a transmission jack as this makes alignment relatively simple. The transmission if aligned correctly should just slide in place. It took me 3 attempts because the input shaft requires rotating to align with the spline on the clutch.

Bolts should not be used to jack the transmission in place, the easiest method for aligning the spline’s is to place the transmission in gear and rotate the drive shaft, wiggling the clutch yoke also helps center the input shaft.

The Quick Time bell housing came with two sleeves which accurately align and support the nose of the transmission into the bell housing. Check that the correct one is being used and make sure this is inserted before assembling. Bolts were tightened to 50 foot pound of torque and marked with torque lock. Medium thread lock was used on the four bolts.

Tremec TKO 600 FYI’s

Finished the transmission off during the week, there are a couple of points not mentioned in the previous discussion regarding Tremec TKO 600 transmissions which are of note:

1. The large rubber bung in the tail shaft needs to be removed (do not throw away), the best way to do this is by using a pair of needle nose pliers gentle sliding these inside of the outer seal at 12 o’clock, 4 and 8 o’clock gently working the bung out (12 o’clock marks can be seem in the picture).

This should be kept as this seals the tail nose if the driveshaft is removed and will stop transmission oil from spilling if the transmission needs pulling at a later date.

2. If the electronic speed sensor is to be used then the rubber plug on the driver’s side where the mechanical speed sensor would be mounted needs replacing with a cap fitted with an o ring and held in place by a ¼” bolt.

3. The holes on the gear leaver needed drilling out to match the shifter arm.

Started Dash – 2 Hours

After procrastinating since December on the final dash layout, today was the day to take the plunge.

From left to right: Tachometer (not installed), left turn signal, main beam (blue), right turn signal, speedometer, wiper switch, horn button and, ignition.

Tip: The turn and main beam lights are a friction fit, over time I have found these to work loose, the best way to fix this is to slip a rubber grommet over the fitting from behind during final assembly. This forms a simple rubber clip.