Which wire goes where? – 2 Hours

Room becomes a premium very quickly as more and more systems are installed, especially in the upper half of the driver’s foot box and behind the dash board. Before finally deciding on the location of the master cylinder brake reservoirs I decided to install the fuse panel to better understand which direction the reservoir hoses would best clear and also if different fittings would be required to raise the hose’s higher.

The Mk3.1 kit includes a full harness from Ron Francis. This is a very nice package, each harness is clearly marked and every wire is also clearly marked. The instructions are acceptable and specific to the Factory Five Roadster.

But, and this is a big but, there is only one small ground for the whole system! So before the engine arrives there are a number of modifications to be made, these include:

1. Add more common grounds for the front and rear wiring harness

2. Splice in the FAST EFI wiring harness, this mainly focuses on the fuel pump controlled by the EFI computer (not forgetting to utilize the inertia switch), and electric fan. The plan is to have the FAST computer control the fan with a manual override switch

3. High intensity headlamps are also to be used and so two additional relays will be required for this function. For those not familiar with relays, a relay basically is a high current switch triggered by a lesser current (the dash switch) and the reason for using relays is to eliminate cooking / burning out of the dash board switch. (All of us Brit’s know that every Lucas electrical system included a small bag of blue smoke and the key was not to burst this bag)

4. Add a 12V outlet in the dash filler panel

5. Add a calibration patch for the electronic instruments

6. Add a reversing light (the Tremec TKO600 transmission includes both a neutral and reversing switch)

7. Courtesy lights in each foot box, the light switch facilitates this option

8. Weather pack quick disconnects for all the light fittings to ease body mounting / removal

9. Wipe relay modification to include park (yes this is possible)

After laying out the harnesses they all look to be of sufficient length, however the cut out in the driver’s side foot box between the foot box and the firewall /transmission tunnel will need enlarging for the required cables to run through this bulkhead.

Still in two minds about replacing the clock in the vintage instruments with an oil temperature gauge, or add this gauge anyway and relocate the clock.

Gas Tank Assemble & Installation – 4 Hours

10 things to remember when assembling and installing the gas tank:
1. Use the darker locking collars, these are more robust and lock better than the chromed collars
2. Install the tank sender, then the fuel pickup (or in-tank pump), the reason for this is that you can see if these fit correctly through the filler neck hole.
3. A smear of grease or WD40 will lubricate the vent and gas filler gaskets, don’t push too hard when installing these, the last thing you want to have to do is recover these from inside of the tank
4. Double check before drilling the filler neck retainer bolt hole that it is not near the tank seam weld

5. Straighten the flange at the four positions where the tank straps go. The reason for this is that the ¾” tubes where the plastic caps are inserted need to be flush with the flange. If this is not done the mounting straps will appear too short.
6. Attached mounting straps from the rear first, as this is a fixed position, then attach and tighten from the front mount, use the washer under these nuts.
7. You may need a longer 3/8”-16 Allen Bolt, I found the 2” to be too short initially so used a 2 ½” which reformed the strap when tightened
8. Straps are only roughly bent to the correct form, these will need additional fitting
9. The longer strap is for the passenger side
10. Gauge sender unit needs to be installed with the float pointing toward the front of the car

Over all the tank assembly and installation was straight forward, the locking collars are a tight fit and will require a punch and hammer to tighten, the tank straps may initially seem too short and some re-bending may be needed. The tank is offset when mounted towards the driver’s side.

It is worth checking the tank sender resistance prior to installation just to make sure the unit functions correctly, at empty mine read 16 ohms and 160 ohm at full.

Although a fuel pickup is included in the kit I opted to purchase the Ford Racing in tank pump as I will be going EFI on this build.

Trunk Panels – 2 Hours

With the engine on order I need to step up the build (suspension, breaks and steering are basically complete) , but before the next two systems are installed (fuel and electrics) I need to finish up fitting the trunk panels.

The reason for needing to finish up fitting the trunk panels is that the fuel tank sits in a plastic protective housing, by drilling the rivet holes after fitting the tank drill chips are likely to get trapped between the tank and its plastic shroud.

All rear trunk panels drilled and fitted, this leaves the three mid-trunk panels

Second Major Decision – The Engine

The first major decision was taking the plunge and ordering the car, the time came this week for the second major decision, ordering the engine.

Over the last few weeks I have spoken to a number of custom engine builders, all were given the basic specification, Ford 302, 350 HP, EFI.

After some soul searching I decided to place my business with the Engine Factory. We all make personal choices; however as someone who is involved in sales daily, the decision was based on reputation, customer service and informative technical knowledge without overselling. Chris achieved this in a friendly and professional manner.

The Engine Factory was not the cheapest, however they were willing to make a deal, and having been in business since 1969 and built over 75,000 engines you have to figure they know what they are doing. In addition they provide a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty, which in itself says a lot about the quality of their work.

So what you gear heads have been waiting for, the specification:

Hypereutectic Federal Mogul 9.5 TO 1 compression
Speed Pro chrome moly piston rings
Comp Cams Steel Roller Xtreme Energy camshaft
Melling oil pump
Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads 60cc combustion chamber with bronze guides
Front sump 7 quart Canton racing oil pan
Cobra black wrinkled aluminum valve covers
Edelbrock performance RPM dual plane intake manifold
4 barrel 1000 CFM FAST EZ EFI System
Pertronix Flamethrower ignition, distributor and coil
Cobra oval black air cleaner with PCV ventilation system
Chrome 100 amp alternator one wire hook up
Complete MARCH under drive polished pulley set
Polished chrome alternator bracket
Quicktime steel bell housing
Fidanza Kevlar clutch
DB Electric starter

Initial Dash Board Preparation – 1 Hour

To give the dash board greater support (plan is to install a glove box), space to mount a calibration patch panel (speedometer, tachometer, fuel, and clock) and room for 2 x 12V invisible outlets I decided to use a dash filler panel from Replica Parts (see link reference sites).




Although the dash is pre-cut, additional holes are required for various indicator lights; the dash is centered round the steering column and will need trimming to match the dash hoop.

Finished Hard Brake Lines – 2 Hours

Today was spent finishing up the hard brake lines with the final connection at the master cylinders. Labels will be made for each cylinder to eliminate confusion at a later date when all panels and body are finally installed.

The outer cylinder is for the rear brakes, with the inner being the front, this will be important when adjusting the brake bias and installation of the Wilwood bias kit.

Today's tip and one I meant to mention when first starting the hard break lines, always tape the ferrule’s to each end of the break line before bending, there is nothing worse than having a line of complicated and beautiful bends only to find both ferrules are at the same end.

The Question Everyone is Asking – What Color?

After attending the Texas Cobra Club annual meeting and reviewing hundreds of photographs Brooks and I have finally decided on the color scheme. Blue base with grey/silver stripes (double wide center, with pinstripe outer)

More therapy, started on the rear panels – 1 Hour

There is no shortage of aluminum panels still to be fitted and drilled, some of which will go out for powered coating. Started with the rear quarter panel and because I will be installing driver and passenger roll bars, the panel requires modification so that the bolts can be reached to secure the 3rd passenger side roll bar mounting post.

Modifying the Tie Rod – 3 Hours

Because rack extenders are used to reduce “bump steer” without modification the tie rods would cause excessive "toe out", because we need "toe in" so that the car tracks straight the length of the tie rods need to be reduced.

After double checking the measurements each tie rod required approximately 1” to be removed from each end. Although there are many ways to shorten the tie rod I decided to use a hacksaw mainly because there would be no heat buildup, it was also easy to use the jam nut as a guide and support the out end with the rod end.

Caster, camber and toe were roughly aligned, on checking lock to lock travel the inner rear tires rub on the F panel, this will be easily resolved by the use of rack limiters. These small plastic clips are mounted under the rubber gaiter.

The fount suspension and steering is basically now complete, further alignment will occur one the car is dropped from the axle stands and the ride height set.

Where does the time go – 6 Hours

Today was spent finishing up a number of jobs, the differential cover was installed with a standard gasket and RTV Black silicone (I am determined this would not leak) and the cover bolts tightened to 30 ft/lb’s.

Filled differential with 4oz of Ford fiction modifier, and 2 quarts of Valvoline 75W90 gear oil.

Re-installed steering shaft with both bearing collar’s facing each other (1” front foot box bearing should have the collar inside of the foot well and the pillow block bearing flange should face the font of the car).

The Breeze offset steering rack bushings move the steering rack forward of the standard position and so it had been easy to install the 1” bearing backwards without interference of the knuckle joint. As I will be using a full under dash support it would be impossible to reach the pillow block flange grub screws unless this was facing forward. It is now possible to reach from within the foot box.

Passenger foot box fully assembled and installed with black GE silicone sealant and black rivets.

Cobra’s First Boots – Tire Size and Choice

The tires arrived this week, the thoughts behind selection (size, aspect ratio and make) was based on the following:

1. The first set of tires may show excessive wear as alignment, tire pressure and driving style are dialed in (I am sure I won’t be able to resist a few donuts and burn outs)

2. Maximum tire diameter cannot exceed 26”

3. Body is yet to be fitted so maximum clearance at this stage is a must.

The wheels were discussed in an earlier thread (17” x 9” front, 17” 10.5” rear), the maximum tire not exceeding a 26” diameter would be 315/35 R17, however this would also be the widest configuration and so to keep at a 25.7” diameter consistency the chosen first rear tire is a 275/40 R17. This is married with a 245/45 R17 front, also 25.7” diameter.

Sumitomo HTR Z II were selected, basically because they were the cheapest high performance summer driving tire and I like the directional tread pattern.

My 3-Link suspension guide (definitive use of spacers)

The 3-Link information for a Mk3.1 complete kit is limited, the following information is a result of the FFR manual, build school, and cobra forum threads, it includes lessons learned as I installed a Moser 8.8 rear axle into a 3-Link suspension system. The Moser axle already has the upper arm mount pre-welded to the axle.

Note: It is OK to install the caliper brackets prior to installing the axle but DO NOT install the calipers or disk as you will not be able to pass the axle through the panhard frame mount. Don’t worry about clearance, once assembled the axle will not rest on the panhard chassis mount.

1. Install panhard bar and competition traction-lok brakets to axle (pre-paint axle prior to assembly, brackets are powder coated)

2. Place axle on jack stands or use a jack to place axle in the approximate position and install lower control arms. To keep mounting ears parallel you may need to add fender washers between LCA and mounting ears (top picture), at this stage tighten, but do not torque. User upper holes for less than 400hp

3. Assemble Koni shocks; install shocks with body at the bottom, shaft up. Use equal 1.1” spacers for the upper mount. For the lower mount use the larger 1.1” spacer at the front and the 1/8” shim at the rear (2nd picture). Install the lower shock bolt from front to back.

4. Assemble the panhard bar and install to the passenger side traction-lok bracket using the following spacers. User two 0.375” spacers and one 0.25” spacer towards the front with the 0.0625” shim to the rear. Use the 5/8” washers with the bolt and nut.(2nd picture)

5. Install the panhard bar to the frame with the remaining two 0.375” spacers to the rear and no shim at the front. Check that the rod end does not binding on the weld. (3rd picture)

6. Install upper control arm with equal 0.25” spacers, for cars with less than 400hp user upper frame mounting holes. Use 5/8” washer at axle bracket.

7. Torque all bolts, check shock does not bind.

Upper control will be used to set pinion angle, panhard bar will be used to center axle.

Final note: Be careful with shock bolts and spacers, I had very soft spacers and with a torque setting of 50 ft/lb’s the spacer compressed.

Where do all those small aluminum panels go!

Enclosed in the un-mounted aluminum box (in my case box 6) is a small envelope containing a number of small aluminum patches, I thought I would explain the use for the first five of these panels.

Panel 1 – Cover plate for the F panel if not using a 4.6 L donor engine (see December 27th, 2009 post)

Panel 2 – Drivers side front foot box wiring harness cover (round patch), this needs to have a hole drilled for the harness (top picture)

Panel 3 & 4 – Passenger foot box gap filler for 2” tube (bottom picture)

Panel 5 – Drivers side front foot box cover for ¾” frame, this can be modified for brake lines (top picture)