10 things to remember when assembling and installing the gas tank:
1. Use the darker locking collars, these are more robust and lock better than the chromed collars
2. Install the tank sender, then the fuel pickup (or in-tank pump), the reason for this is that you can see if these fit correctly through the filler neck hole.
3. A smear of grease or WD40 will lubricate the vent and gas filler gaskets, don’t push too hard when installing these, the last thing you want to have to do is recover these from inside of the tank
4. Double check before drilling the filler neck retainer bolt hole that it is not near the tank seam weld
5. Straighten the flange at the four positions where the tank straps go. The reason for this is that the ¾” tubes where the plastic caps are inserted need to be flush with the flange. If this is not done the mounting straps will appear too short.
6. Attached mounting straps from the rear first, as this is a fixed position, then attach and tighten from the front mount, use the washer under these nuts.
7. You may need a longer 3/8”-16 Allen Bolt, I found the 2” to be too short initially so used a 2 ½” which reformed the strap when tightened
8. Straps are only roughly bent to the correct form, these will need additional fitting
9. The longer strap is for the passenger side
10. Gauge sender unit needs to be installed with the float pointing toward the front of the car
Over all the tank assembly and installation was straight forward, the locking collars are a tight fit and will require a punch and hammer to tighten, the tank straps may initially seem too short and some re-bending may be needed. The tank is offset when mounted towards the driver’s side.
It is worth checking the tank sender resistance prior to installation just to make sure the unit functions correctly, at empty mine read 16 ohms and 160 ohm at full.
Although a fuel pickup is included in the kit I opted to purchase the Ford Racing in tank pump as I will be going EFI on this build.
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